CLAUDIA VINTER

TEXTILES DESIGNER

HOLLY ROSS

The work of Holly Ross was definitely the most stand out garment to me. The intrigue of looking at a garment and thinking ‘how have they done that’ always seem to appeal to me most. Although I had seen Holly in the process of making her garment, when it was completed and on display it completely transformed the look of it, and I was surprised at how something so messy and grungy could look so nice and professional. The photography did a lot for the work, and the colour palette was strong throughout. Comparing Holly Ross, to other degree garments such as Sioned Evans; although I loved the quality and techniques used in Sioned’s work, the high quality photo shoot and the look of the models that Holly had used just made the whole collection seem a lot more professional in my view. I could imagine it being in a fashion magazine and the photos made it look very high end fashion and that it was part of the industry.

 

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Holly Ross ‘FRAIL’ Final Collection

 

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 Holly Ross’ Final Collection Look Book

 

 

UNIT X | JAMES LONG EVALUATION

Throughout Unit X, working on a live brief for James Long SS17 collection has been very different to anything I have done during uni. Choosing the fashion option I was worried I wouldn’t fit in, and wouldn’t be able to get the flow of the fashion way of working. Being put into a group of people I didn’t know, apart from Laura, scared me. But I was soon to find they were all nice and welcoming.

Having a mixture of textiles and fashion was strange to begin with, trying to pick up everybody’s specialisms and strengths. The fashion way of working was completely different to textiles, and it weren’t until the final few weeks that I started picking up exactly how they work. It seemed strange not having primary research and coming up with a whole concept to base the project on rather than just a word or point of interest as I was used to. I think being told this, would have helped me make a start much faster than I did. Also developing a muse was new to me, and the way the designs start much earlier than they would do in textiles. It has been a learning curve being part of the fashion brief; I have learnt a lot of new things during my time and picked up valuable knowledge to take through to my final year. As well as learning things about myself that I could only see when working with a group, such as the pace I was working at, and what I needed to personally improve on.

Working in a group has been a tough challenge, it has had it’s ups and downs. Group work would be something I wouldn’t necessarily like to do again, it was annoying having to rely on people and not being able to do everything myself. I expected the workshops to be teaching how to design, but we never got taught anything, so had to rely on the fashion students to do the designs and flats as we had no previous experience.

Presenting to Tom was a good experience to get feedback from somebody in the industry that knows what they are talking about; and can instantly pick up on anything that is not right or distracting from a group project. It was constructive criticism and enabled us to go away and work on and improve the project further.

Unit X has been a very strange end to my second year, it has taught me a lot. I feel I would have benefited more from a textiles based brief as the way of working confused me, and with it being group work, I felt like I had gave up and got really fed up with the project before the end. It was interesting working for a Live brief and it helped me explore some new knitting techniques to take into my final year, and helped me with designs which will be an important part of Level 6.

UNIT X | JAMES LONG

I was nervous leading up to presenting our group work to Tom. I didn’t know what to expect and had no idea what he would like/dislike. With only having 3 of my samples into the designs, I felt my work didn’t show it’s full potential in the presentation as they weren’t as bold and in your face as Laura and Sophie’s, and a lot of them were similar.

The presentation was more relaxed than I imagined, and the feedback we got from Tom was constructive. He added that there was a lot of white spaces in the group file which he liked, but didn’t reflect in the samples. He advised to have more white in the samples to rebuild the work up. Some of the designs we had done, shown the knit in a much bigger proportion to the samples, and suggested we back this up with a sample showing the correct proportions. He also said the sampling could have been pushed, and combined with other group members to make it look like an even stronger group collection.

With having the exhibition put up in two days, there was not much we could do at that time to complete what Tom had advised. I decided to knit another mesh sample using white cotton to then weave into. I would have liked to use a sample of another group member to weave through, but at this point, nobody wanted to or had planned to do more samples; and seemed quite precious about the ones they had.

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White mesh knit sample

I enjoyed putting up the samples in the exhibition space with Laura and thought the whole of Unit X for James Long looked very strong and stood out.

UNIT X | JAMES LONG

After developing the group muse, our pin up this week looked much stronger. Especially with Sophie being in, which also helped bring the collection together. Even though there was only three of us, the amount of work looked just as full as other groups with all of their members work.

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We decided to do some collaboration stand work with our samples afterwards to visualise how our samples would look together for final designs. We then planned what needed doing for the remainder of the week before the presentation to Tom.

We realised we were also lacking in trouser designs, but had lots of tops and jackets. Me and Laura agreed to doing some trouser and shorts designs for the next day to bulk up on that side of the garments so we had a lot to choose from for the final collection.

Sophie had thankfully sorted out the Muse poses and with the help of me and Laura, got on with drawing the final designs. With the rest of the group not showing up till the end of the week, it was hard to incorporate their samples and designs from not seeing them for over a week. They didn’t flow, and with not being in, didn’t know where we were up to and which direction the group work was going in.

A lot of the trousers and shorts in the final collection ended up being normal or distressed jeans and shorts anyway, I think from the brightness and print from the top garments needed toning down with regular jeans.

 

UNIT X | JAMES LONG

After spending the rest of the week knitting, I planned to carry on this week and develop my samples after the pin up with the group. I really liked the knitted meshes and had a lot of compliments on one particular one which had denim woven through. There was lots of ways I could push the meshes, as well as being a good way to translate my drawings by weaving different yarns and materials through them.

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Knitted mesh sample with woven denim

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Knitted rib with elastic inlay and fastenings

In the workshop to start off this week, it was only me and Laura there, which made the day very confusing. With us both being textiles students, and the workshop was for line ups and finishings; we didn’t really understand what we had to do. The fashion students were a lot of help in the group when it came to things like this as they would instantly know what they were doing. We got some images of finishings and fastenings whilst on the computers to help work with, but still didn’t really understand what we were supposed to be doing.

On wednesday, the presentation of sampling got cancelled and changed. We were asked to stay in the room in our groups and continue designing. Once again it was only me and Laura, and with the designing usually being our final part of a project, we didn’t want to waste our time and didn’t yet have a developed group muse for the whole group to design from. We decided to plan knit samples together instead to help develop our samples.

It was annoying having none of the fashion students in as it blocked us from doing certain things and made the workshop crit weak with only having textiles designs. We needed a developed group muse figure and face to work with as it looked messed up and like it was from two different projects. We could have had this sorted out from a group meet but didn’t get to see the rest of the group any time this week.

UNIT X | JAMES LONG

Starting this week and having my 3D workshop with Kate, I was hoping this would be the basis to my samples; and something that I would be able to incorporate into my knits. I hadn’t started knitting yet as I thought it would be a waste of time, with having Laura knitting anyway. I was excited to start the 3D and tried to build my drawing work up until then so I had lots to work from. I had done a few small bits of hand embroidery translated from my drawings to start me off, but expected the workshop would give me lots of new techniques to work with.

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Hand embroidery denim sample

I was disappointed by the workshop, as we only covered two techniques. Hair pinning, and cording. I didn’t expect to be on the machines and thought it would be more exciting than it turned out to be. The techniques learnt were okay, but not something I would be able to get a whole project from. There were a few ways I could incorporate the techniques into my samples; but decided to stick with my specialism in knit, as machine embroidery isn’t something I am greatly interested in.

The rest of the week was free as we had no tutorials scheduled this week, so the group decided to carry on with sampling and I started knitting; knowing the 3D embroidery wouldn’t really get me anywhere. Me and Laura had decided to each work on different machines. I would work on the dubied machines and Laura on the domestic; this way we wouldn’t be bringing similar samples to the group. I was focussing more on the sportswear element of the samples, and wanted to use fastenings within my knits such as drawstrings.  Laura on the other hand was doing much more pattern based knit which was a lot different and much more dense than my samples. I wanted to keep mesh into the collection as from the start, looking at the 70’s, it was something that had stuck with me and I wanted to explore it further. With the concept being Miami, I thought mesh would work well for this collection.

 

UNIT X | JAMES LONG

Coming back after the easter break, I was intrigued to see the work of the fashion students and what they had been working on. They all seemed to have pages with images on of the research they had been looking into. I was confused at what they were going to draw from and how the work would develop on.

Pinning all of our work up in the workshop, allowed us to see clearly as a group what we had so far. We could see what needed developing, and what else we needed to do. None of the group had started sampling properly, which was the main thing we needed to build on throughout the week so we could start designing.

I didn’t really understand the fashion way of working at this point as nobody had done the kind of drawings I was used to doing in textiles, they seemed to be face/body drawings more than anything. I was confused as to where they were going to get their ideas from for sampling, as usually I would translate my drawings I had done from my primary research into samples and techniques. With not having much primary research or being able to take my own photos, I was still struggling with understanding what it was I had to do.

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Pin up after Easter